Daniel Augustus Beaufort, Journey Through County Clare, August 1788
Clarecastle to Quin via Dromoland
Daniel Augustus Beaufort LL.D. (1 October 1739 – 1821), was an Anglican priest and geographer, born in England to French Huguenot parents. He was rector of Navan, from 1765 to 1818, and a talented amateur architect also remembered for his 1792 map of Ireland.
Clare(Castle)
Immediately after church [Ennis] we set out and passed through Clare, a small town at the confluence of the Shannon and Fergus over which there is a good bridge and large vessels at its quay. Here is a castle now converted into a barrack for two companies who march to church to Ennis. Half way between these two towns are the ruins of Clare Abbey.
The country here is rich and good and full of gentlemen’s seats: Morriesk, Mr McNamara’s, which we saw at a distance, a Major Grant’s which we passed by are said to be very good and pretty places. But the largest in this country is Dromoland the seat of Sir Lucius O’Brien.
Just before we came to it we crossed on a high bridge a little river with deep muddy banks – the Wye in miniature. At the gate of Dromoland, we applied for leave to drive through the grounds which the porter told us every gentleman was welcome to do. So we went on by a pretty lake and then turned short by the offices, not to be seen, and were passed them a good way and making out of the avenue as fast as we could, when a man on horseback overtook us, whom we were striving to avoid and determined to refuse if he came with an invitation. But when we found it was Sir Lucius O’Brien himself, such a hospitable exertion was not to be refused – ergo – we turned to the antique mansion and spent a very pleasant day.
Dromoland
A large old house not regular and only part of a vast design, intended to connect with a castle, since pulled down, standing between terraces with gravel walks, grassy smooth slopes and distant objects seen through vistas in front. In the rear commanding a small lake, with fine woods overhanging a fine rising ground full of haycocks beyond it. The house covered with jasmine, a great aloe in a tub at the front and many very beautiful trees make this old fashioned place cheerful as well as magnificent.
In the house are several old family pictures of the O’Briens and some better ones of all the Clarendon family, from whom Sir Lucius is descended by the women. In a long tiled gallery full of maps and stags’ horns and other such things is a very curious massy table of some kind of mahogany, with four lions for legs and in the middle Hope on one side and Charity on the other for supporters, all rudely carved. This table was taken out of one of the ships of the armada wrecked on this coast 200 years ago and can be lengthened at both ends, in an uncommon manner, by drawing out two half leaves which are under it and the great upper leaf falling in between them which keeps all level and fast. Here we saw also an ancient sword which was in the hand of his ancestor Conor O’Brien when slain by General Ludlow.
Sir Lucius cultivates hemp and lucerne but R. W. had not time to stay for us to see this farm tomorrow.
Lady O’Brien is a very pleasant and very affable woman, has been very handsome, talks a good deal and was very attentive to me. Offered to write to Mr Pelham the painter and surveyor to meet me at Killarny. She showed us many miniatures of her father’s and uncle’s and of other paintings. She showed me Pelham’s original drawing of the County Clare. In short they were as civil as possible and pressed us to stay another day. They have eleven very fine children. Here are also two of his late brother’s Edward, James and Harriett: the boy a most beautiful intriguing face and seemingly very industrious to be informed, the girl handsome but, I think, not quite so pleasing in her manner as Nichola, Miss O’Brien’s name. But all these young people extremely well behaved and very attentive and civil to William.
The dinner was plain and plenty. We drank full enough, had coffee and a slight supper and at ½ past eleven retired to rest. This whole day has been intensely hot.
August 4th 1788
At 7 we took leave of the Baronet, for he was up, and passed through Ardsallas, a very small village where a great fair is held, to Quin where a few scattered houses form a little hamlet.
Quin
The abbey of Quin stands on a bank on the east side of a small river, which we passed yesterday, and makes a grand picturesque object. The west door is square on top and the ascent to it up several steps, 8 or 10, which are not quite destroyed, adds to the dignity of its appearance. The west aisle is 56 [feet] long by 23 wide. The steeple 15 [feet] square raised on four arches 7 feet 9 inches wide, and very lofty, at least 35 feet. In the choir over the stone arch of a tomb, are distinct remains of a large crucifix and other figures in stucco. On the south side there is a chapel called McNamara’s, well built of cut stone 39 feet long and 24½ wide, arch that breadth in the south wall of church. In this are 4 windows one at south end, one at west but not central and 2 at east side regular and a niche between them.
There were several detached buildings to this abbey but at the east end are two circular projections which look like the stumps of castles, the north one however seems to have been a dove cote, the south is more levelled.
The abbey belongs to Mr McNamara. The village to Sir Lucius and the opposite side of the river, where stands the ruined parish church, is Lord Pery’s.