Were it not for the prominence and high status of the fort within this small townland, it surely would be known today as Ballynihill or Ballyneylon, dominated as it is by these two family names! The anglised name Caher Kelly is first recorded in 1661 in the ‘Books of Survey & Distribution’ and in all subsequent English records. The original name has been speculatively translated by James Frost as meaning the ‘Fort of the Kellys’ and translated by John O’Donovan as Cathair Cheallaigh. Given that the townland names of only one third of our counties have been officially researched and signed off on, we are left to rely on this provisional interpretation, a direct translation of the family name. One would have to wonder why such an important fort in the possession of the MacNamara clan would be associated with Kelly’s! Perhaps, it could be argued, like its neighbouring feature, Magh Adhair, the name pre-dates the later arrival of the Celtic people, but this in historically unlikely.

The townland was in the possession of John and Conor MacNamara up to 1641 but was disposed after that date to a Dr Edmond Mara, Donough O’Callaghan and John MacNamara. The O’Callaghan’s had been dispossessed of their lands in Cork and offered lands in Clare by way of compensation.

Occupiers of land eligible to pay tithes in Cahercalla on 1st May 1825

 

John Moylan

 

Patt Nihill

 

John Neylan

 

James Grey

 

James Naylan

1855 Griffiths Valuation of Cahercalla property holders

Charles Haneen Thomas Neylan

Michael Nihill Patrick Nihill

Michael Brassill James Nihill

Patrick Neylan William Moylan

Charles G O’Callaghan

Census details 1851-1891

1851 Census: 17 houses, population 93

1861 Census: 10 houses, population 43

1871 Census: 9 houses, population 42

1881 Census: 9 houses, population 51

1891 Census: 10 houses, population 42

1901 Census Information of 8 families

Martin Moylan

James Nihill and wife Catherine, sons John & Michael, daughter Ann.

James Nihill and wife Catherine, daughter Brigid & Margaret.

Patrick and Anne Neylon, son Thomas, daughter Bridget.

Margaret Neylon and sons Michael, Thomas, Patrick, daughter Mary.

John Nihill, wife Brigid and son Michael, daughter Mary.

Patrick Nihill, sons Michael, Patt, daughter Minnie, cousins Delia and Aggie Hickey.

James and Ann Burke.

1911 Census Information of 7 families

James Nihill (widower), son Michael, daughter Agnes.

James Nihill and wife Catherine.

James McNamara and wife Margaret, daughter Mary, son Michael.

Anne Neylon and son Thomas

Margaret Neylon and sons Michael, Thomas, Patrick

John Nihill, wife Brigid and sons Michael, Patrick, daughter Mary, niece Agnes Hickie.

Martin and Margaret Kennedy.

Cahercalla Triple-walled fort

The proximity of Cahercalla to Magh Adhair and its triple ringed structure gives this particular fort a status above those surrounding it.

Inaugurations at Magh Adhair began in the 9th century and included that of Ireland’s most famous High King, Brian Boru. The inauguration ceremony is thought to have begun at the fort of Cahercalla, progressing to Magh Adhair along a route marked by standing stones. Historian T.J. Westropp described the ceremony as having the soon-to-be king standing atop the mound, while a gateway was formed below, guarded by three chiefs. A fourth chief had the honour of presenting the candidate with the sacred white wand, or Slat na Rige, cut from the sacred tree known as the bile, associated with Magh Adhair. Other chiefs would tend to the candidate’s belongings and assist him in robing and mounting his horse after descending from the mound.

Above: Recent aerial image by Richard Maxtet

Below: 1902 photo taken by TJ Westropp

1896 sketches of Cahercalla by TJ Westropp

TJ Westropp undertook a series of survey and studies of Clare antiquities and reported to the Royal Irish Academy. Despite his urgings to the ‘power that be’, no substantial investment or protections have ever been offered to these exceptional state assets. We are very lucky, as Westropp himself recognised, that folk tales surrounding these sites have offered some protection against destruction of the years. Here he recounts a story from Cahercalla while visiting this area:

“Nevertheless the son of a farmer named Nihill told me in 1892 that, after some days wreckage and removal of the outer wall of the fine triple stone fort of Cahercalla, near Quin, his father was stricken with acute pain, and only recovered from his illness when the work was stopped,—whence this interesting ruin has been preserved to the present day”

A Folklore Survey of County Clare by Thomas Johnson Westropp

Small multiple enclosure positioned E facing sloping ground with excellent views to NW to SE. Likely to
have been bivalalte for the entire circuit, although the outer enclosing elements at the W have been
levelled. Possible Early Medieval ringfort at the centre of the hillfort. Four breaks in the possible Early
medieval ringfort. A 5m wide break in the inner enclosing element of the hillfort is likely to be an original
entrance. Interior in pasture. Tree cover over enclosing elements.

Archaeological Survey of Ireland SMR Database CL034-150002

Tobar Breasail

The best preserved of three well’s, this lies on the north-east side of the Cahercalla road, about half a kilometer from Corbally Cross. There is a stile leading to the field. The well lies approximately 150metres in from the road. The well is old and rustic, with a few stone steps leading to the water. A drystone moss-covered wall protects it. Apparently, Breasail is the old name for Breackan. Saint Breasail’s/Breackan’s feast day is 29th April. A second Saint Breackan’s Well is found in Doora, across the fields from St. Brecan’s parish Church. As can be seen from the 1855 Griffiths Valuation above, there was property in the ownership of a ‘Michael Brassill’ in Cahercalla. Is it possible that the name derives from it’s location in this property?

Toberlanniv, Tobar Leanbh

Unfortunately, no sign of the existence of this well can now be found. The area where it was located is overgrown with brambles. It was shown on the 1842 OS 6” map, so presumably would have been present at that time. The name of this well would indicate that it may have been a health well. Toberlanniv or Tobar Leanbh means ‘The Child’s Well’, suggesting it was once associated with helping children’s ailments.

Tobar Neachtain

The well lies two fields from the Toonagh road, on the west edge of Hell River and not too far from The Hell River bridge. There is not a lot known of Neachtain, whether he was a local saint or other.

Closing Comments

The importance of the two adjoining sites of Cahercalla and Magh Adhair will someday, hopefully, be recognised for the their important historical and cultural significance. This may well be extended to include forts at Creevagh and Cragataska. The potential for developing a ‘Heritage Park’, similar to Rathcroghan in Roscommon, is obvious. Without investment which would offer protection and access, at the very least, these historical assets will continue to be lost to those to which they belong.

 

Other references:

In Clare, at the very least, the forts of Bealboru, Magh Adhair, Cahercalla, Cahershaughnessy and Moghane in the eastern half; Cahercommaun, Glenquin, Cahermacnaughten, Lismacsheedy, Doonaunmore, Cahercottine, and, above all, Ballykinvarga in the north-western, and Doonegal, Lisnaleagaun, Liscroneen, and Dundahlin in the south-western part should be vested. It is not a question of spending money, for any ‘restoration’ is greatly to be deprecated, but only to secure each structure from further injury. Were the above bare list, by any good fortune, accepted, and others ordered to be preserved, it could be easily extended. Ballydonohan Caher, Lugalassa, Lisnagree, Langough, the double forts of Drumbawn and Creevagh near Quin, and the square fort of Culleen in the east, Caherdoonerish, Turlough Hill, Cahercloggaun, Caheranardurrish near Glensleade, Cahercashlaun, Cashlaungar, Caherconnell, Lisnastoolery with Cahernabihoonach and Creevagh near Glencurraun, with their enclosed dolmens, Cahergrillaun and Doon in Burren and its borders, Mullach in Inchiquin, Cahermurphy Castle earthworks, Dundoillroe, Doonaghbwee, Lisduff near Moveens, and others, in any country save Ireland, would be held worthy of conservation. If this is not soon undertaken, the vandalism of country gentry, farmers, rabbit-hunters, road-menders, and treasure-seekers must soon reduce the well-preserved and remarkable remains of Clare to the condition in which antiquities are found in county Limerick.

Prehistoric Forts and Dolmens in North Clare by Thomas Johnson Westropp

Note:

James Frost (1819-1907) was born at Ballymorris, Cratloe, Co. Clare. He was a scholar and linguist and served as High Sheriff for the county in 1879. He was elected Fellow of the Royal Irish Academy and served two terms as vice-president of the Royal Society of Antiquaries. The History and Topography of the County of Clare was published in 1893 and provides a history of Clare, up to 1700.

 

Historical references to its name

c.1660

Caherkelly

BSD (Cl) Leathanach: 141

Books of Survey and Distribution, Co Clare

1665

Cahirkelly

Inchiquin Leathanach: 361

Inchiquin MSS (ed. Ainsworth. 1961)

1678-1683

Cahirkelly

Inchiquin Leathanach: 452

 

1679

Caherkelly

ASE Leathanach: 260.13

Abstracts of Grants of Lands..under the Acts of Settlement and Explanation, A.D.1666-1684 (Appendix to Fifteenth Annual Report from the Commissioners of Public Records of Ireland, 45-280; 1825) Bliain: 1666-84

1683

Cahirkelly

Inchiquin Leathanach: 459

1684

Caherkelly

ASE Leathanach: 279.15

Abstracts of Grants of Lands..under the Acts of Settlement and Explanation, A.D.1666-1684 (Appendix to Fifteenth Annual Report from the Commissioners of Public Records of Ireland, 45-280; 1825) Bliain: 1666-84

1688

Cahirkelly

Forf. Est. Leathanach: 352.46

‘Abstracts of the conveyances from the trustees of the Forfeited Estates and Interests in Ireland’ Bliain: 1703

1714

Cahirkalla

Inchiquin Leathanach: 617

1727

Cahirkelly

CGn. Leathanach: 55.16.35698

Clárlann na nGníomhas/Registry of Deeds Nóta: Tagraítear d’imleabhar, leathanach, gníomhas./Reference to volume, page, deed.

1775

Caherkelly

Inchiquin Leathanach: 420

1839

Cahercalla

BS:AL

Boundary Surveyor c. 1830 as AL / Ordnance Survey Parish Namebooks. Bliain: 1830

1839

Cathair Cheallaigh

OD:AL

O’Donovan (leagan Gaeilge de logainm nó nóta agus é scríofa le dúch; John O’Donovan / Seán Ó Donnabháin a scríobh de ghnáth), ex AL. A note or an Irish form of a placename in the Ordnance Survey Parish Namebooks, usually written by John O’Donovan. Bliain: 1830-40, Bliain: 1835, Bliain: 1838

Taken from Logainm.ie/Cahercalla

 

 

 

Seán na Gealaí

Halloween is the direct descendent of Samhain. It was the night when the gap between this world and the spirit world narrowed.  Known as Oiche Shamhna or ‘spirit night’, the souls of the dead were expected to return to the family home. The Church introduced the Feast of All Saints (Nov1) and the Feast of All Souls (Nov 2nd) to counter Samhain. Evil spirits were also thought to be abroad and people avoided travelling alone on this night.

   “Deireann na daoine go mbíonn sidheogaí amuigh oidhche Shamhna”, Schools’ Collection (NFCS 249).

Origins of Samhain

Contender 1- Tulsk, County Roscommon

Oweynagat Cave, Uaimh na gCat, meaning the ‘Cave of the Cats’ in Rath Croaghan. The Book of Leinster names it as dorus iffrin na Hérend – Ireland’s Gateway to Hell. Demons and all kinds of creatures emerge from here on Oiche Shamhna.

 Echtra Nerai (the Adventures of Nera) is first mentioned in the 10th century Cath Maige Mucrama story,  happening at Samhain.

Oweynagat Cave is also said to be the home of the Morrigan. She is portrayed as a goddess of battle and war, with the power to transform into crows or ravens. Her dreaded cry was frequently heard over battlefields.

Echtra Nerai, the Adventures of Nera

An Irish text taken from the Ulster Cycle, dating to the tenth century entitled ‘Nera and the Dead Man’, tells of the warrior Nera who accepts a dare during a dark and stormy Samhain night to tie a withy around the ankle of a hanging dead man. As he does so, the corpse suddenly comes to life and asks Nera to carry him on his back. Nera complies. After some adventures Nera gets the dead man back to his tree. All of this takes place at Samhain at Rath Croaghan/Cruachan, hence its association with Halloween.

Contender 2 – Tlachtga, Meath

The original Tlachtga was a druidess of considerable power and importance, the daughter of Mug Ruith who lived on Valentia Island in Kerry. He is said to have lived through the reign of nineteen kings, with his lifespan stretching back to the time of Christ on earth. Tlachtga and her father could travel the world on the Rath, a fabulous spinning wheel of fire that easily transported them. Mug Ruith sought out knowledge and learning like few before him and it was in this manner that he and Tlachtga travelled to study under Simon Magus (Simon the Sorcerer), who is mentioned in the Bible.

Simon Magus and Mug Ruith sent Tlachtga out into the world to gather as much knowledge as she could find. Upon her return they realized that her knowledge far surpassed their own!
They were outraged and such was their jealousy that they set the three sons of Simon Magus upon Tlachtga, who defiled her. She returned to Ireland where she gave birth to three sons, Dorb (Doirb), Cuma (Cumma) and Muach.

It was on the hill of Ward in county Meath that Tlachtga brought her three sons into the world, and it was there that she died, unable to sustain her life in the face of the utter grief and despair she felt at the indignity she had endured.

In recent years a renewal of the annual gathering on the hill of Ward now attracts hundreds of people at Halloween. A walk from Athboy up towards the Hill itself culminates with a celebration, with elaborate ceremonies and an acknowledgement of the cultural gift to Ireland and the world that Tlachtga represents.

In the ancient kingdom of Mide, Tlachtga was considered an important assembly place alongside Tara, Teiltun and Uisneach. These four ‘corners’ are recorded as having been the location of fortresses constructed by high king Tuathal Techmar at the foundation of Mide in the early decades of the first millennium AD.

‘Much of the (archaeological) evidence points towards a long history of ritual activity. Large quantities of animal bones – a sign of large scale feasting have been found throughout all phases of the site. The lack of evidence of any residential or day to day activity strengthens the idea that it most likely it was set aside purely for ritual or celebratory activity.

There have been finds in all three phases of the site, including scattered Bronze Age human remains and the skeleton of an infant between seven and ten months old… The child burial, next to a ritual deposit of cow bones, dates to AD 450 – around the time of the arrival of Christianity.

“The child was clearly buried with care and having not found any evidence of burials on the site, we’d have to guess that This child belonged to someone significant”.

Harvest knots and Guises

 

 

Homemade masks made by village boys calling to local houses on Oiche Shamhna

Outdoors

Unlike May when the fairies are active, November Eve brings malevolent spirits. It is the night for community bonfires, especially in housing estates in the cities and towns. Collecting the last handful of fruit and nuts.

Indoors

Families would attempt to have a celebratory supper on Oiche Shamhna. Family supper might be colcannon or pandy. They would first secure the house by sprinkling Holy Water and possibly placing a religious object in the thatch near the front door.

Typical Samhain Food included pancakes, stampy (a potato and apple cake, crusted with barley, enhanced with sea spinach and rock samphire & cooked with oil) apple cakes, nuts, blackberry pies.

An bairín breac/the barmbrack or the ‘speckled loaf’, containing oodles of dried autumn fruits is still a favourite treat, with lashings of butter.

Tokens inside the traditional loaf included the ring as a symbol of love and marriage,  a thimble (spinsterhood); a button (bachelorhood); a stick (to be beaten by the spouse); a rag (poverty); a coin (wealth) and a crucifix (the taking of religious orders).

Future Reading