Cullaun/Coilleán Townland

The origin of the name derives from Clann Chuiléin, whose power-hold was centered on the locality close to Quin. The principal families ruling this sept was the O’Brien (Uí Bhriain) and McNamara (Mac Conmara). The townland name has gone through a number of transformations over the centuries but mostly revolving around the ancestor from which it originates (see extracts from Logainm.ie at end of this post).

This townland has an area of 476 acres or 1.93 km²

An exception is the 1641 Down Survey Name: Cloghrinagh. There are quite a few standing stones in the fields facing the estate which dominates this townland, might this old name be a reference to these features?

This survey also recorded the following information:

1641 Owner(s): McNemara, Donnogh (Catholic)

1670 Owner(s): O’Brien, Barnabas earl of Thomond (Protestant)

Unprofitable land: 10 plantation acres. Profitable land: 3 plantation acres. Forfeited: 3 plantation acres

1659 Census Total: Population 10 Irish. Tituladoes (principal occupiers): James Sexton, George Sexton (his son)

1851 Census: 11 habitable buildings, population 76

1855 Griffiths Survey (for valuation purposes): Robert Studdert, Denis Mairian, Daniel Molony, James Molony, Mary Grady, James Hallinan, Robert Redmayne.

1861 Census: 14 habitable buildings, population 64

1871 Census: 7 habitable buildings, population 32

1881 Census: 7 habitable buildings, population 26

1891 Census: 3 habitable buildings, population 11 (7 male, 4 female)

1901 Census: 1 habitable building, population 10 (4 Studderts, their private  teacher and 5 staff).

1911 Census: 1 habitable building,  population 10 (6 male, 4 female)

There is no record of the population prior to the famine in the 1840’s. We can see a steep decline in the population from 1851 and this is likely to be a result of the general change in agriculture which required less labour and more pastureland for livestock. The Congested Districts Board setup by the government after the famine would have encouraged landlords to ‘improve’ their estates through eradication of traditional ‘rundale’ patterns of development. The nearby Derrymore and Derrybeg would have been a good example of this type of ‘Clachán’ communal living. These are recorded on the first OS maps but no trace remains today.

Cullaun House – CL728865. View of the rear of Cullaun House below. One-time house of ‘Honest Tom Steele’, the house is also known as Cullaun Castle. For more information on ‘Honest’ Tom Steele and Cullaun House, see https://theirishaesthete.com/2023/07/17/cullane-house/. He was an interesting character who certainly set his own path but appeared to have suffered for the empathy he carried for others. He was an engineer and diver, a supporter of the Catholic and Spanish liberal causes, a duelist and anti-faction fighter. Much more has been written about this fascinating character and the other occupiers of this house so I wont rehash it all again here.

Cullaun Lake

Also known as Lough Cullaunyheeda and Lough O’Connell on the OS first edition maps. Given his close relationship with Daniel O’Connell (and burial within the O’Connell Circle in Glasnevin), you would have to wonder if the origins of this unusual placename can be traced to ‘Honest’ Tom Steele?

Toberinneen, Cullaun – CL043-021. The well house at Toberinneen Holy Well in Cullaun. One of at 18 wells associated with INGHEAN BAOITH of Kilnaboy. It is situated beside two ruined cottages set well back on the north side of a track to Cullaun House, or close to the most south westerly point of the lake. The well is roughly in the shape of a low hut and resembles a smoke room or sweat house.

A Folklore Survey of County Clare by TJ Westropp – Rock Markings

Finn’s (MacCumhail) fingerprints are visible on a rock which was brought to Cullaun House early in the last century by Tom Steele. It was taken from Birr, where it was seen by Thomas Dineley about 1680. The stone was called ‘the Navel of Ireland,’ and the V-marks are now regarded as the footprints of the cock that crowed at St. Peter’s denial. It was used as an alter stone at one stage when Daniel O’Connell visited Cullaun House. It was eventually returned to Birr in 1974.

Steeles Turret

This feature is described on the first OS maps as a turret but appears to be a vertical monument or viewing point built at the top of the highest point within the townland. Tom Steels is credited with having built this, which makes sense given his attempt to recreate an ancient ambience around his estate.

Closing comment

This townland sits within an area sometimes described as the Clare ‘Lake District’ centered close to the Kilkishen area. It is the most wooded area of the Quin parish, although most of this is of the commercial Sitka Spruce variety. Given its proximity to the Craggaunowen Heritage park, it has great potential for re-wilding or return to an Irish rain-forest. The lake, forest and hinterland offer something unique which should be explored for its visitor potential by the County Council or Tourist Board in the future.

Historical References:

Note: Research undertaken by the Placenames Branch and extracted from Logainm.ie

Reference websites:

West Clann Cuilein

https://www.clarelibrary.ie/eolas/coclare/history/the_west_clann_chuilein/the_west_clann_political_economy.htm

Biography of Tom Steele

https://www.dib.ie/biography/steele-thomas-tom-a8270